The Maasai Mara

From the moment I found out I would be travelling to Kenya, I knew I would visit the Maasai Mara. This incredible landscape is the true crown jewel of must-see places in Kenya. As the northern half of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve boasts many incredible animals and is home to the annual wildebeest migration. After much anticipation, some friends and I finally made it there and needless to say, it did not disappoint.

Prior to our trip, we had recently made some new friends at the homestay and decided to all head to the Mara for a good time. Joining Rodrigo, Jonah and I were some Chilean friends of Rodrigo’s – Francisca and Carlos who are currently travelling the world. We also had the privilege of meeting Elisa – an Italian student studying in Yokohama, Japan who has been here for the past few weeks writing her thesis about Vava Coffee and organic farming. After a six-hour scenic ride from Nairobi and quick stop to take in the Great Rift Valley, the six of us made it to the County of Narok. From there, it’s another hour or so on yet another very bumpy road until you arrive at the entrance to the Maasai Mara.

As per usual, at this point our adventure had to take an interesting turn. A little less than a kilometer away from camp, our van broke down. While we waited for a new one to arrive we had the chance to play with some kids who returning home from school. These kids were so full of life, (no offence to Canadian kids) exuding energy to everyone they met, ready to shake your hand and play a game. With my first niece or nephew on the way in September I find myself continuously surprised at how optimistic and resilient kids can be. At long last, the new van arrived and we made it to the Manyatta Camp, ready to relax and meet new people.

Unfortunately because we were late arriving at camp we didn’t have time for the 2-hour game drive we were promised as the park was closed for the evening. Instead, our tour guide Daniel took us to a local Maasai village and school to get a more authentic experience. From my understanding, the Maasai people are one of the oldest tribes in Kenya, native to the southern regions of the country and have historical jurisdiction over what is now the Maasai Mara National Reserve.  While the “traditional Maasai village” was easily the most touristic thing I have yet experienced, it was still a very cool learning experience.

On Saturday after a very early morning we set off into the Mara around 7 am. Cold and tired, I was not sure what to expect from this day. Luckily, we were not disappointed. Driving through the Maasai Mara you get the chance to see and hear such an incredible variety of animals that you cannot help but be a little overwhelmed as your body has to deal with a wicked reaction of excitement, adrenaline and occasionally fear (getting charged by elephants). With that being said, you quickly adapt to this once-in-a-lifetime experience quite easily and start enjoying every minute. Within no time, the sun had made its appearance in addition to zebras, gazelles, impalas, elephants, eagles, giraffes, lions, cheetahs, vultures, hippos, crocodiles, ostriches, buffalo, guineafowl and of course, wildebeest.

As cameras shutter and hundreds of safari jeeps arrive at the best viewing spots, one of the hardest parts of this experience is the balance between watching nature as it unfolds right in front of you and capturing the best photos. While it can be hard to limit yourself to the narrow view of a lens, you can’t help but be caught up in the excitement and snap a dozen pictures within a minute. In fact, it’s fair to say that its not uncommon for tourists (myself included) to come away from two days in the Mara with 1000+ photos; trying desperately to capture the magnificence of this place.  

As the sun disappeared and the day was coming to an end, we once again came across another “bump” in the road. Out of nowhere a torrential downpour took over the Mara and within minutes it became dark, cold and windy as the rain pounded our van. Being in the middle of nowhere with only dirt roads to work with, we all thought it was best if we called it a day. Unfortunately this proved harder than we thought. After trying to rescue another van that had gotten stuck, we ourselves drove straight into a massive depression in the grass and were firmly stuck in place. Given that the Maasai Mara is over 1500 square-km with non-existent land markers, it was around this time the jokes about “getting eaten by lions in the middle of an African safari” began to emerge. Finally, after pushing the car in the pouring rain with a little help from another van we made it back to camp soaked and hungry. After drying off and eating dinner, we ended our night with some drinks as we met some other expats from Argentina and Italy.

On Sunday morning we finished off our trip with another short game drive throughout the Mara before heading back to camp to pack up. Truth be told, as sad as I was to leave I was looking forward to getting back to Nairobi to get some well-deserved sleep.

I wish I could claim to be an “outdoors person” – the type of person who longs to sleep out under the stars and prefers to leave the city behind for the outback. Unfortunately, I am not this person. Don’t get me wrong, I (like most Canadians) love a good camping our cottage trip every now and then but I just can’t let go of the comforts of home. That being said, it’s hard to believe this once you have visited the Mara. In my opinion, the Maasai Mara is well-deserving of the title “once-in-a-lifetime experience” as there are very few countries in the world which can claim to host such incredible wildlife. For anyone thinking of visiting East Africa, the Maasai Mara is reason enough to come to Kenya.

Mombasa

When my host mother Serah suggested a trip to the coast to unwind from the long (and unpaid) hours at work, I jumped at the opportunity. Well, actually I didn’t. In fact I had to be coaxed into it but once I was, I jumped at the opportunity. From the beginning of this trip, I told myself I wouldn’t have any expectations and I try new things. Despite this renewed lease on life, I was uneasy about going to coast. Prior to coming here, I became hyper-aware of all the attacks, travel advisories and “horror stories” associated with the coastal cities of Mombasa and Lamu. However, by this point I decided that I was feeling confident (or possibly dumb) enough to take a risk and experience this incredible region. On Friday morning, Serah, our friend Eva, Jonah, Roderigo and I set off around 9:00 am to catch our Jambojet flight from Nairobi to Mombasa. After a quick 45 minute trip, we touched down into what felt like a Caribbean paradise. Because of its low elevation and position along the coast, Mombasa can be 15-20 degrees warmer than Nairobi making it the perfect getaway for a weekend. We decided to take the rest of Friday they way most Mombasa locals would: “pole pole” (slowly). A trip to the grocery store to pick up some basics and quick stop at an Italian restaurant for lunch seemed all we could handle before heading to the beach. Once Jonah, Roderigo and I arrived at the Mombasa Beach Hotel, I was blown away by the view. At some point in our lives, we have all seen the ocean (including myself on several occasions) and yet, it never ceases to amaze me. As the sun went down, we all met back up at our residence for the weekend: the Manchester House. The Manchester House (named after the wildly-popular soccer team, Manchester United) was a cool, 70’s-style palace which resembled something like the Playboy Mansion (one would imagine). On Saturday as Serah, Eva and their friend Frita set off for their fitness conference, Jonah, Roderigo and I set out to see some of the sites in Mombasa City. Our first stop took us to Fort Jesus – a massive, pre-colonial fort built in the 1500’s rich in Portuguese, Arabic, British and Kenyan history. Odd as it may seem, this was one of the coolest things I have seen yet here in Kenya. I think it may be because as a Canadian it is difficult for me to imagine anything older than 100 years, let alone 500. While the fort has no doubt seen its share of damage and vandalism over the past centuries, it’s still in great shape all things considered. I am not proud to admit it, but Fort Jesus’ medieval canons and decaying walls reminded me so much of the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Walt Disney World (except with real violence, death, slavery and war). This historic UNESCO World Heritage Site is definitely at must-see for anyone travelling to Mombasa. As we left Fort Jesus, we decided to do a quick city tour of Old Town with our driver Tony. Old Town is named as such because of its incredibly old buildings and rustic marketplace feel dating back to the original settlement. What I found to be incredibly interesting as we toured Old Town and Mombasa in general, was the feel of the city. As soon as you arrive you instantly recognize that you are no longer in Nairobi. Mombasa’s warm weather, large Muslim population and less developed (albeit charming) streets feel more like a city in the Middle East than Kenya. It’s safe to say that in addition to the ocean horizon, this unique city offered me views of the most incredible mosques I have seen to date. As the three of us started to feel the heat and some of the chaos of Mombasa’s streets we decided to escape to the Sarova Whitesands Resort and Spa. Unlike in the Caribbean, in Mombasa anyone is welcomed at private beaches (especially now that tourism is dead). Despite being a complete ghost town, Whitesands offered great food, great service and a great pool area. On Saturday night we decided to let loose so we headed to a club called Sheba in the City Mall. Sheba was my first time going out in Kenya (and in Mombasa no less) and it was a great time. Despite the occasional flash flood of rain and overpriced drink (now I know this is universal) the six of us had an awesome time. By 3:30 am we decided to call it a night and after four hours of dancing I crashed as soon as I hit the pillow. By Sunday we were all exhausted. We decided to skip the beach and the tourist attractions to lounge by the pool and take some well-deserved naps. In the evening, Serah took us to the coolest restaurant I have seen in a long time: the Moorings. The Moorings is a floating restaurant which allows you to take in the surrounding boats and scenery on the water with a great ambience and great food. Being on the coast I had to have seafood, leading me to order an amazing prawn pasta. Following dinner, we made a quick stop at the liquor store to pick up some vodka before heading home for another pool party. Overall, it was a great night. On our last day, we decided to spend our last hours in the place we knew we’d miss the most – the beach. After a few hours of lounging, we headed to the airport where we nearly missed our flight (again) until we finally touched back down in Nairobi. However by Monday night I was pretty shaken up. The internet at home was on and off and so I was unable to check my emails but would still continue to receive news updates to my desktop’s headline feed. I was shocked to see a headline reading “Shooting Rampage in Mombasa, 4 Dead”. Unfortunately, because the internet was still down I was unable to find out more and had to rely on the article’s boiler plate which indicated the shooting had taken place a couple of hours ago when two men started shooting at random. The following day at work as I read up on the incident, I learned there had been yet another attack when the same perpetrators walked into a bar at night and started killing people. It is scary to think I was there just hours before the attacks took place. Despite being lucky enough to have gotten out, I couldn’t stop asking myself “what if we had been there?” I suppose today’s insight is simply to know when to say no. Of course I am glad I was able to see Mombasa, however, in hindsight it was a bad choice. In this instance I should have listened to my gut. While it’s good idea to try new things and to not believe everything you read, there are times when you simply should not take risks this big. This weekend I gambled my safety and it paid off but I don’t know if I will get so lucky next time.

Dinners and Parties

For those of you who read my blog, you’ll know that I typically begin my posts with the “travel” and finish with the “insight”. However, this time I would like to change things up and start with my general thoughts about living here in Kenya and the world at large. In short, we should all (myself included) be more grateful. Grateful for the things we have and grateful for the luxuries we don’t even notice. I say this because lately I find myself reflecting on events here and comparing them to my life back home in Canada; some seem unimaginable while others reassure me that certain challenges are universal.  This renewed feeling of gratitude is not particularly associated with any single occurrence but rather a combination of things. Whether it’s a conversation with the groundskeeper at work or a look at the daily headlines, many things remind me that we are very lucky to live where we live, with who and what we have.  I usually avoid any mention of security or terrorism as I believe that Kenya is too often plagued by media hyperboles and unfair generalizations. With that being said, lately security has been on the minds of many Kenyans and expats alike following several attacks on the coast. Make no mistake I’m not implying that Canada is 100% free from these kinds of concerns; but that the immense faith we have in our society to leave the door unlocked at night should not be under-appreciated.  With that, I think I will end the PSA here and move on to my adventures these past couple of weeks.

Some time ago, I decided to spend the day exploring the nearby Uhuru Gardens. The Uhuru Gardens is a green, lush national monument and park that is often used for festivities and political gatherings (picture the Major’s Hill Park of Kenya). The Uhuru Gardens feature many incredible monuments symbolizing Kenya’s independence, struggles and peace in addition to hosting a great picnic area for families. While taking in the history, I noticed a particular camel who was basically asking me to get on his back and go for a ride. Being the kind friend that I am, I obliged him. What was (truthfully) a very average and uneventful camel ride had me in stiches. I am not too sure what I thought was so funny – perhaps the height or perhaps the rocking movement – but I could not stop giggling prompting the trainer to ask me several times if I was alright. If ever you have the chance to ride a camel, do it.

It is not just my adventures which prove to be interesting; life at home never ceases to amaze me. As all of us at the homestay continue to get to know the puppies (which I now refer to as gremlins) we have also been lucky enough to acquaint ourselves with several new guests. These include Roderigo from Chile, Brendan and Ruth from Wales as well as Kara, Laura, Christy-Lee and Peter from the United States.  Meeting new people you quickly learn how big and diverse the world is. Despite the fact that you start referring to your housemates as “Chile” or “the Americans”, meeting new people in this type of setting allows you to have a short glimpse into the lives of such cool people.

A little while ago, Vava had informed us that she was asked to give the keynote speech at upcoming Rising Star Awards Kenya at the Hilton downtown which seeks to recognise, celebrate and connect young talented people who have a capacity for achievement in business and entrepreneurship. After having her new speech-writer Jonah finish up her thoughts and reflections on her life experience she took to the stage surrounded by the who’s who of Nairobi. Vava’s speech was a bold, powerful nod to young entrepreneurs who are fighting their way towards success and who “have the balls” not to sell out for “cushy corporate jobs”. What we didn’t know is that approximately 95% of our audience were members of the lucrative corporate community. Ultimately, it’s safe to say that Vava hit it out of the park and moved the audience with her story of struggle, failure and ambition. Beyond the great entertainment, the night proved to be a great chance to network as I had the chance to meet and quickly speak with Ms. Gladwell Wambui Kahara. Galdwell is a young, United Nations all-star having previously spoken at forums such as the United Nations General Assembly, the International Criminal Court and the United Nations Development Programme among many others.

While it is safe to say that I am loving my time here in Kenya, I have to be honest and admit that I was pretty bummed I missed Canada Day in Ottawa. It was my first time missing the patriotic day of red and white blurs and seeing pictures online didn’t help.  With this in mind, Jonah and I were able to get in touch with an organization here in Nairobi called the Canadian Association of Kenya which hosts a Canada Day party every year at the residence of the Canadian High Commissioner to Kenya. It’s sad to admit but I was very excited to meet a diplomatic hotshot (shout out to the IR crew) and pick his brain about human rights, DFAIT and why the UN sucks.  Luckily for me, High Commission David Angell was both friendly and honest and shared some insider wisdom about the world of international politics. Its safe to say this was by far the most laidback and tame Canada Day party I had ever been to, but it was a very enjoyable time nonetheless. Following our patriotic celebration, we decided to end the day with Transformers 4 at the IMAX downtown. Spoiler alert: it’s horrible, do not watch it.

On Sunday, the homestay hosted over 40 relatives, friends and neighbours for Junior’s birthday. Ronald Junior (or Juju as he is known around the block) is the youngest member of the Mdawida-Mucha family clocking in at just two years old. Despite his young age, Junior has a wide array of passions and hobbies. These include dancing, playing, ensuring every last Lego piece is on the floor, driving his toy car, drawing and calling out for “Helen!” whenever he can. Junior was quite happy with all the love, cake and toys he received and was his usual self, singing and dancing to his favourite “deedee dada ah ah” tune. Once again, it was a great time with friends, family and plenty to eat and drink.

Rooftops and Rapids

Let me begin by apologizing to my loyal readers (all 13 of you) for not posting lately. Between work and adventuring I just have not had the will to sit down and blog my life. That being said, let me give you a brief recap of the past two weeks. Approximately two weeks ago on Friday night Jonah, Phoebe and our newest Australian guest Deon decided to head out for some authentic Ethiopian food at a restaurant called Habesha. I had been craving some good injera for a while and needed to get it out of my system. Needless to say, it was incredible (not as good as the Bailey’s of course, but a close second). For the rest of the weekend I decided to take it slow, hoping to save a little money and catch up on some reading. Luckily, the fun came to me as Serah and Ronnie decided to throw a big family barbeque which included burgers, kabobs, various sausages, salads, chips (fries), chicken, rice and some wine. Overall, it was a great time with the family and left me full for the next few days. The following week carried on as per usual as Vava Fresca started to heat up. Just recently I managed to book Canadian celebrity chef Roger Mooking and funky-fresh South African musician Toya Delazy for our stellar line-up. After a long week of work I was more than ready for the weekend; which proved to be one of the most exciting ones since my arrival here in Nairobi. Allow me to explain. My most recent way of putting my life in imminent danger came about when I was white water rafting through the jungle in class-5 rapids (the biggest there are) in hippo and crocodile-infested waters. Let me take you back to the beginning: it all started when my cousin Emily and her friend Brad decided they would pay me a visit all the way here in Kenya. Upon learning that Emily would in fact be coming to Nairobi I was over the moon. Given that Emily and I have many similar interests and friends are in short supply here, I was so excited to have a familiar face and part of the family here with me. On Saturday after a quick lunch, Emily, Brad and I took off on a matatu for downtown. After some wondering we ended up at the Kenyatta International Convention Centre (KICC) where we took in the stunning fountains before heading to the top of the building. As one of the tallest buildings in Kenya – let alone Nairobi – the KICC offers an unparalleled view of the city. While at the top, we were lucky enough to take in a very special choir practice from a local group of singers who were filming a promotional video and even met a Kenyan lady who happened to be wearing a Wilfred Laurier University sweater that had been given to her as a gift. Before she arrived, I had promised Em that we would go to an authentic Kenyan market as I myself had not yet done so and was also very curious to see what we could find. Having been told time and time again to head to the Maasai Market for the most “authentic experience” I decided we should give it a try. Unfortunately, as soon as approached the market we knew we would not be able to stay long. Immediately upon entering, Brad, Emily and I were all swarmed with intense (albeit well-meaning I’m sure) salesmen who began directing us, grabbing us, selling us and essentially blanketing us with an overwhelming amount of tips, suggestions and commands. Within 10 seconds the three of us were separated and began to slightly panic leading Em to call out “Nick, on y va!” as we quickly exited. While we were all a little bummed to have missed out on some really cool Kenyan treasures, it was a pretty exhilarating experience nonetheless. By the time we settled down from the market, we had just enough energy to visit the Kenya National Archives and take in a variety of African art before heading back to Karen for dinner. Unfamiliar with good restaurants in the area, we decided to go to a place called Talisman which I had heard good things about. There, I had one of the best steaks of my life before splitting a great sundae with Em. I figured I should eat like a king in case it was my last meal: tomorrow we would be rafting. If it was not obvious by now, it’s safe to say that I felt quite uneasy (although excited) about rafting. You see, prior to her arrival, Emily had suggested we partake in some extreme-sporting. Having instantly vetoed bungee jumping and sky diving, that left us with white water rafting. Following nearly a two hour drive on Sunday morning, we arrived near the town of Sagana to get our orientation and get out in the water. After what felt like an eternity driving to the actual launch site for the raft, we arrived – gear in hand – to take on the rapids. Just a few last-minute tips from our guide such as: don’t panic under water or you might die, watch out for hippos and “if I yell get down, get down” and we were off. Truth be told, when we first got out in the water it was actually quite dull. The course is designed so that you begin on still water and work your way up the rapid-classes so that you can adjust to the conditions. Luckily for us, by the time we did hit “The Captain’s Fall” (titled as such because the guides or “captains” almost always fall out leaving you and the rest of the crew on your own) our fear had melted away and we started to actually get excited at the thought of huge, dangerous rapids. While our guide managed to hang on, unfortunately gravity and giant rocks had their way and caused Em to fall (jump) out of the raft only to meet us right after. Having already tackled class-5 rapids, the rest of the course was a breeze, but incredible nonetheless. Sore, sunburnt and exhausted we ended our day with some lunch and tea before heading home to catch some sleep. The past two weeks – and this past weekend in particular – have been incredible. I find myself again and again pushing myself (with the occasional help from a cousin) to try new things, to be better. Although at times I feel grumpy and stressed from work, ultimately I am so happy to be here in such a different place. It’s difficult to articulate, but I truly feel like I am learning so much every day. Not about authors or theories but about things that matter, about people, about life. Being here, you meet so many interesting people who choose to live their lives so differently and it quickly expands your thinking; suddenly the things that once seemed impossible are now within reach. Until next time.

Madaraka

This past work week went well. On Tuesday I met with the exterior designer who will be sketching the layout and style for our upcoming foodie event, Vava Fresca. I also had a chance to speak with our landscaper and graphic designer to ensure all parts were in order. When all is said and done, Vava Fresca will be a chic, rustic marketplace that showcases both local produce and international flavours for Kenyans. Without any shortage of ambition Vava has told me to aim high; instructing me to contact celebrity A-listers such as Jamie Oliver and John Mayer. Despite my doubt that an intern will be able to convince Mr. Mayer to come to Kenya for one private show, I persisted nonetheless.

On Thursday, Jonah and I went with Serah and her friend Eva to go see Maleficent at the Sarit Centre in Westlands. The movie was quite good and overall it was a great time except for the fact that both Jonah and I were battling our stomachs that day. After finishing up a couple of grant applications we ended the week strongly, ready to enjoy our long weekend for the Madaraka Day celebrations.

On December 12th of 1963, Kenya obtained independence from Britain making that it the official independence day for the country. However, it would not be until June 1st of the same year that Kenya would finally obtain formal, internal rule over its citizens and policies. For this reason every June 1st – Madaraka Day – Kenyans take pride in celebrating their 51 years of independence from the British Empire. Prior to the big celebration on Sunday, it was interesting to speak with Kenyans, Australians and Americans as we all had something to say about gaining independence from Britain at one point in time (plus it was a long weekend so that was pretty great too).

Saturday morning started the same way as all the others – slowly. By the early afternoon, a few of us here at the homestay were getting a little restless and decided to go for a short hike. Soon after arriving at the Oloolua Nature Trail in Karen, Phoebe, Jonah and I took the road less travelled (literally because we got very lost and just made our own path through the forest). After a nice day and a few bug bites, we ended the night with some beer and kalimotxos sitting around talking and getting to know our newest housemate, Zach.

On Sunday Phoebe, Jonah and I were once again looking for something exciting to do and decided to leave the city behind for a quick trip to Lake Naivasha. Naivasha – a small town of about 180,000, around two hours north of Nairobi – hosts one of the most stunning lakes for expats to see here in Kenya. After arriving to our hotel late on Sunday night, we decided to get the most out of our day on Monday and set off around 7:30 am. By 9:30, the three of us had made it to Hell’s Gate National Park where Jonah made his first attempt at riding a bike. Ultimately, we decided to go with a tour guide named Kevin who double-rode with Jonah but for his first try it was a valiant effort. Hell’s Gate offered some truly amazing landscapes in addition to zebras, impalas, buffalo, sheep and giraffes (becoming the norm now). Following an hour bike ride, we made it to Hell’s Gate Gorge for a 2-3 hour trek. The trek proved to be quite incredible and pushed me both mentally and physically as some parts required some vertical climbing. Despite being quite uncomfortable at the time, I was so happy I stepped outside my comfort zone and conquered the gorge (my muscles beg to differ). By the time we biked back to the entrance of the park my body was shutting down thanks to the uphill road and scorching heat (see videos below).

By the end of the day, us mzungus (said: ma – zune – gooz) decided that we could not end the day without visiting Lake Naivasha itself. Following my most packed matatu ride ever, the three of us arrived at a small village and took off with a guide onto the lake. Being on the lake reminded me so much of North Bay and made me miss Canadian cottage country so badly but I was just happy we got the chance to get out on the water. There, we had the chance to see some massive pelicans and a family of hippos before wrapping up our trip. Once again, I had an amazing week in Nairobi. The sights and sounds this country has to offer are like no other and keep me excited for the next adventure around the corner. Besides a little homesickness and a strong craving for Kraft Dinner, I can’t complain. Life is good.

 

Reporting from Hubli

They say in India you will have some incredible experiences, soon to be followed by some equally bad ones. My first two weeks here have embodied that saying perfectly. Adjusting my spoiled Western life style and adapting to this dynamic country has been far from easy, but two weeks later I'm fortunate to have established a good support system, a safe living space, and a comfortable routine here in Hubli. 

I'm Lily, a prospective business student currently studying towards a Honours Specialization in Chemistry at Western University. My summer internship is with AquaSafi, an Indian arm of the American company H2O for Humanity, L3C, which provides clean drinking water for developing parts of the world. Working out of the Deshpande Foundation on the campus of BVB College of Engineering and Technology in Hubli, India, my responsibilities include managing the company's social media channels, visiting the plants in rural Karnataka, and reporting my field experiences. When I am not spending 9 hours in my office or in the rural villages, on weekdays I like to stay on top of Game of Thrones, update my personal blog (www.lilyontheloose.wordpress.com), catch the cricket game on TV at a friend's house, or jog around campus. On the weekends, I plan to travel around the state of Karnataka as well as many other parts of India with the other OGE interns who are currently working in Bangalore. 

Deshpande Centre for Social Entrepreneurship in the morning, situated on the campus of BVB College, the building where I work.

The Deshpande Foundation incubates many start-up businesses and NGOs, including TiE Hubli. I was fortunate to be able to volunteer and attend TiECON Hubli and network with many ambitious entrepreneurs.

From left to right: a student volunteer (currently studying towards a Masters of Social Entrepreneurship), Mrs. Jaishree Deshpande (Co-Founder of Deshpande Foundation), and myself at the annual TiECON Hubli.

I have settled into a fairly regular routine here, waking up with the sun, going for a run, and working away at the office until it gets dark or rainy outside. When it rains it really pours. To be fair, it does come with fair warning: the air gets thick and humid, masses of dark clouds roll in and before I can even get my umbrella out, it’s like a re-enactment of Noah’s Ark out there.

The sunrise I witnessed on my morning jog on campus.

Luckily I haven't been sick at all since I've been here. The food, water, and weather have all agreed with me. 

Northern Thali, a dish with curries, rice, and chapati, a local specialty.

My friends here at the Foundation have taken me to their family friend's houses, and the more I experience the lives of locals the less and less I feel like a foreigner.

A well-decorated house with paintings done by a professional artist just in time for a wedding.

I haven't been spending everyday in Hubli. One of my responsiblities from work is to visit the storefronts and workshops of AquaSafi and report my field insights. On a scorching Thursday, I set out by myself to the district of Gadag where I visited four different villages. It was an incredibly eye-opening experience that really put my first world problems into perspective. See my full experience here: http://lilyontheloose.wordpress.com/2014/06/04/gadag-tale-of-a-rural-village/

Surrounded by this young team of engineers and technicians who work for AquaSafi in the district of Gadag.

Smiling children from a rural village in Gadag and myself in an AquaSafi storefront.

 

Namaste. Visting the Jain Temple in Lakkundi, Gadag after my work is done for the day.

Lakkundi wasn't the only place where we visited temples. The interns in Bangalore and I met up in Hampi one weekend and explored this majestic City of Palaces together. 

 Mid-climb to the Monkey Temple with a view of the KishKinda valley in front of me at the mystical Hampi.

 An elephant casually strolling across a small river in Hampi with tourists on its back.

A few of the OGE interns relaxing one sunny Saturday afternoon in Hampi.

It's been an incredible couple of weeks here in India. I have never felt so privileged in all my years than I do now. To work for a company with a great vision, trying delicious food with names I can't pronounce, meeting people with dreams bigger than the moon, and discovering bits and pieces of myself amidst the heat and the noise of it all. I am more grateful than I can say. And this is just the beginning.

Thanks for reading, over 'n out.

 

Up Close and Personal

What started off as a slow week soon became one of the best weekends I have had yet, here in Nairobi.

Monday and Tuesday came and went like any other day at the office – meetings with landscapers, grant applications and too much admiration for the monkeys in the trees outside. However, when we entered the office on Wednesday we quickly discovered no internet connection leading to our most unproductive day yet (not complaining). Apparently, the billing for our internet provider resets on the 19th of every month and due to a late payment the internet at Vava Coffee would not return until the following Monday. Following our Wednesday morning (which consisted of re-watching old movies saved on our computers) Jonah, Gunn, Ray, Phoebe (our Australian friend / housemate) and I went to see the new Godzilla movie downtown at the IMAX theatre. Needless to say, we were not disappointed.

Due to our internet problem, we were given the rest of the week to “work remotely”. On Thursday, Jonah and I went to go meet Vava at a restaurant and café called “Big Square” in Karen. Unfortunately, our matatu driver had no idea what we were talking about and took us to Rongai on the other side of town, making us an hour late. Overall it was a productive meeting which covered everything from our roles as interns to a new marketing plan to the upcoming farmers market event.  My schedule for Friday proved equally enjoyable as it consisted mainly of sleeping in, running, reading, playing with Val (we’re good friends now) and a huge feast of marinated mutton chops and Kenyan bajias at a local pub called Zino’s.

On Saturday, Jonah, Phoebe, Ed (an American living in Thailand who stopped off in Nairobi for the day) and I decided to check out the Nairobi National Park. Prior to my trip I had heard great things about the Nairobi National Park: how it’s the only “safari within city limits” in the world and how it features so many incredible animals. Even with this hype, I still never thought I would come away from this park so amazed. After a little confusion with the park staff about the price and timing for the Landcruiser tour, we finally set off around 4:30 pm for our three-hour safari.

As soon as we set off, my jaw hit the ground. Immediately we came face-to-face with antelopes, giraffes, hyenas, ostriches, lions, lizards, birds, hyraxes and buffalo (known to be aggressive and charge at a moment’s notice). In addition to these incredible mammals, the Nairobi National Park offers some of the best landscapes and sunsets I have ever seen. All in all, it was an experience I will not soon forget.

On Sunday, I had the chance to meet some new people and discover another part of Nairobi. Prior to my trip, some family friends of ours (shout-out to the Fox family) had set me up with the Nolan-Fongs (some family friends of theirs) here in Nairobi as a good source for local information. After exchanging a few emails, I had the chance to meet Phil, Sandy and their daughter Olivia when they invited me to their beautiful home in Gigiri for dinner. Sandy and Phil made me feel right at home with great company and a great meal complete with: lamb, steak, chicken, salads, cakes, whiskey and wine. It’s safe to say that by the end of the night I did not want to leave but I was happy nonetheless to have met such friendly people here in the city.

Truth be told, there are days when I miss certain aspects of my life back home. Even with all the excitement Nairobi has to offer, sometimes I can’t help but miss the things that make Ottawa so great… the friends, the family, the poutine. However, every time I start thinking about what I might be missing, incredible experiences always seem to appear right in front of me; reminding me to live in the moment. These moments are what have made this trip so amazing and I look forward to many more to come.

Matatus and Kissing Lessons

On Saturday, we had our biggest day yet. As we continue to battle our jet lag, waking up at 7 am proved to be a struggle to say the least. Once ready for the day, Mike and Ray (colleagues of ours) picked us up from the homestay on their way to the Organic Farmers Market in Karen. There, we ran the table for Vava Coffee, facilitated taste samples and even made a few sales. After a couple hours at the market, our friend Steve and his wife Martha took us on a tour of the city.

Our first stop was the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trusts’ Orphans’ Project which raises endangered, baby elephants. To answer your next question: yes, they are just as cute as they sound. After our visit with these gentle giants, we then went to the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife Kenya Limited, known colloquially as the “giraffe centre”. While at the giraffe centre, Jonah and I had the chance to see, pet and even kiss several giraffes as their tongues have many antiseptic qualities (making them completely harmless). Following our kissing lesson, we then did a short nature walk and hung out with some ancient turtles before heading to the Karen Blixen National Museum. Karen Blixen – a Danish author who lived in Kenya throughout the 19th century – is now regarded as a significant contributor to the national history of the country for her kindness and literary works.

Having seen wildlife and history, we chose to end the day with a little artistry. Our next stop took us to the Kazuri bead factory. Here, hundreds of single mothers carefully craft thousands of hand-decorated, clay beads and pottery which are then sold all across the world. The renowned Kazuri shop continues to support the livelihoods of these disadvantaged women and other members of the local community. Finally, we concluded our city tour at a local Maasai art market where I was able to find some unique souvenirs for my brothers.

Unlike sight-seeing, transportation in Nairobi can be an unsettling experience. Let me begin by formally apologizing to every LTC / OC Transpo employee I have ever cursed for being late or for driving poorly. Those long blue and green vehicles that once made me so angry now seem like a heavenly form of transportation. I say this because on Monday, Jonah and I had our first experience with city transit on our way to work: the matatu and the motorcycle taxi.

Riding in a matatu is sort of like riding a roller coaster: you are nervous (but excited) before you ride and you always come away with plenty of adrenaline. The only difference is, in a matatu you have no seatbelt and your safety is by no means assured. Once you are able to catch a matatu you quickly board, find a seat and pay the driver (usually about 25 cents Canadian). Today, my seat happened to be right beside an open door as we sped down the highway and I prayed for my life. In essence, the experience of riding in a matatu can be best described as combination of exhilaration and sheer terror.

After getting dropped off, the next leg of our morning commute requires us to take a motorcycle taxi as matatus only stick to the main routes in the city. Once you select a driver, (costs about 60 cents Canadian) the motorcycle takes off immediately as you hold on for dear life. As locals will tell you, this is truly an authentic experience and one of the realities of living in Nairobi. With that being said, I am not ashamed to admit that I clung to the old man in front of me like he was a giant teddy bear.

While at times scary, I am grateful nonetheless to have these experiences that seldom few Canadians ever get to enjoy. I can say without a doubt that Nairobi is truly a city like no-other; full of extremes, surprises and inspiration around every corner. Living here reminds you to appreciate the small things in your life, from the local bus driver to the raccoons down the street and makes you reflect on the luxuries we are all-too familiar with.

High Society

Meet Val.




Part Pomeranian, part diva, this little dog serves to keep newcomers in line. On a typical day, Val enjoys long walks on the road, barking at new guests and generally just ignoring my existence. I have been told that Val enjoys tormenting “fresh meat” (guests who stay less than two weeks) but will eventually warm up to you if you court her. Despite my best attempts at affection, Val does not seem to be giving an inch. While normally frustrated by Val’s cold shoulder, I could not help but forgive her this week with the birth of her five new puppies. Even though you can’t go near the puppies (without a growl and a glimpse of her teeth) I nevertheless managed to sneak a peak of the little guys and man, are they cute. Overall, Val appears to be much happier (and dare I say, friendlier) since giving birth. This effect appears to be rubbing off on us as well as we all wait with excitement for the puppies’ first steps.

On Wednesday, Jonah and I got a taste of the corporate life as Vava Coffee decided to set up shop at one of the most exclusive events of the year in the Michael Joseph Centre downtown. This chic headquarters is named after the founder and former CEO of Safaricom (a massive telecommunications company which dominates the market in East Africa – picture Rogers and Bell combined) Micheal Joseph, who is a very well-respected icon here in Kenya. The particular event we had the chance to attend (called “ManTalk”) featured many powerful CEOs, business bigwigs and the famous Governor of Machakos County, Dr. Alfred Mutua. Governor Mutua is perhaps the most-well liked politician here in Kenya for his commitment to infrastructure, people and fighting corruption (a Kenyan Jack Layton, if you will). Despite our poor sales that night, us interns were happy enough to mingle and enjoy the open bar.

Thursday followed with a similar event, only this time at the Windsor Hotel – a beautiful, massive, British-styled hotel and resort that resembles something out of a movie. On that day, one of Vava Coffee’s best clients – The African Alliance – was wrapping up a large business conference for potential investors. In essence, hundreds of the most elite, regional and international business people descended on Nairobi to conduct deals in the lap of luxury. By nightfall, the open bar and gourmet catering quickly transformed the professional atmosphere into one excess with grown adults behaving like frosh (picture Great Gatsby / Wolf of Wall Street) thanks to a little alcohol. This party seemed to do wonders for our sales, leading us to sell nearly 70% of our stock.

The weekend proved to be quite low-key (which I was okay with) following our long week. After the weekly farmers market in Karen, I stopped by the Gallaria Mall for a quick drink with my friend Anuj (teaching here at Jomo Kenyatta University) and some fellow Mustangs. It was nice to see some fellow Canadians and swap stories about the city, matatus, work and the Masai Mara. By Sunday, I could only manage a run, a nap, some reading and a little work on my blog.

My biggest takeaway from this week comes from my small glimpse into the life of luxury. In Nairobi - like all cities - there are many extremes of economic inequality. This however, was something else. The sheer wealth in attendance at these events is a reminder that the distribution of wealth in the world is not equal. Compared with my life back home, these events were unbelievable; however, compared with the rest of Kenya, these events were out of this world. Even outside the Kibera Slum, one does not need to look far to find poverty of all stages throughout Nairobi.

Don’t get me wrong, I would be lying if I said I didn’t enjoy feeling like a king for a couple of days. However, when you experience that from the outside you quickly realize that this lifestyle is hollow; it is void of what makes life so great. This luxurious fantasy has everything you could ever want except for the real moments with real people. Ultimately, I believe that you do not need to be wealthy to lead a rich life.

Some Sun and Swahili

On Tuesday, our flight from Montreal went off without a hitch – quick, great service and the crew even announced the results of the Montreal-Boston game to a plane full of loyal fans. By Amsterdam it was roughly 3 am Ottawa time when we arrived.. which unfortunately, meant my body was shutting down. Despite technical difficulties with the plane, I was able to sleep through the whole thing (and then some). At long last, we reached Nairobi. By the time we arrived, we were groggy, excited and over two hours late. Lucky for us, our ride – a man named Steve who runs the Mdawida Homestay with his sister Serah – is a patient and hilarious man. Within no time he was cracking jokes about Kenya and explaining that on “African time” you are never really late. By the time we reached our new home we were exhausted but excited to meet our host family for the next few months. Upon arrival, Jonah and I were met by Serah and her husband Ronnie who gave us a warm welcome into their home and made sure we were settled in. With that, our adventure in Nairobi had officially begun.

The next morning (Thursday) Jonah and I were clearly feeling the jet lag as we slept in till 11:30 and 10:30 respectively. After a slow start to the day, we had the chance to meet Crystal – another guest and fellow Canadian living at the homestay until Saturday. Steve could not believe that none of us had ever eaten goat or that anything above 10 degrees back home was fair game for shorts and t-shirts. To be fair, as Canadians, we could not believe that data plans in Kenya cost about 10$ for 3GB or that 15 degrees here is considered “winter”; met with pants, sweaters and coats. We also learned that our beloved online classifieds website “Kijiji” is in fact a Swahili word meaning village (mind blown).

By lunchtime Steve had decided to right this wrong and take us to his local restaurant/pub for some authentic, Kenyan nyama choma (barbequed goat) and smooth Tusker beers. While we waited for it to be prepared (takes about an hour) we headed to ­­­­­­­­­­the Ngong Hills to take in a beautiful landscape and some not-so-friendly goats. While looking out onto what seemed like an endless array of hills, I was once again reminded of how lucky I am. Finally, we ended the day by purchasing some very inexpensive SIM cards and data plans (first time I have ever had data) to use something called M-Pesa – a mobile, transaction service used everywhere here in Nairobi.

On Friday we finally had the chance to meet our new boss for the summer and CEO of Vava Coffee Limited, Vava Angwenyi at her new office in Karen. Immediately we were blown away. Vava Coffee’s newest office space in Karen is a lush, green manor with tonnes of space in one of Nairobi’s most up-and-coming neighbourhoods. After showing us our desks, Vava then discussed our plan of attack for the summer including funding strategies, market research, the recent European launch and infrastructure development for an organic farmers market on the premises. Truth be told, we were both a little overwhelmed but overall very excited for some great professional experience.

Having spent less than a week here in Nairobi it is beyond me to make judgments about this city (let alone this country) at this point. However, I will say that in this short time here I have been met with kindness, humour and hospitality by every person with whom I encounter. In short, being in Nairobi makes you realize how privileged you are and just how small the world is.